Seville is one of the most visited cities in Spain, and for good reason. It has extraordinary monuments, exceptional food, a genuine street life that continues well into the night, and a climate that is either wonderful or brutal depending on when you arrive. Getting the timing right is the single most important decision you will make.
The Monuments
The three UNESCO World Heritage sites — the Cathedral, the Alcázar, and the Archive of the Indies — are all within a few minutes' walk of each other and can be visited in a single day if you start early. The Cathedral is the largest Gothic building in the world and takes longer to explore than most visitors expect. The Alcázar is, in many people's view, the more rewarding of the two — a layered palace complex that spans several centuries of architectural history.
Book tickets for both in advance. The queues without advance booking can be two hours or more in peak season, and the online booking system is straightforward.
Getting Around
The historic centre is compact and best explored on foot. Seville also has an excellent tram system and a network of shared bicycles. Taxis and ride-sharing apps are readily available. The main bus and train stations are both within easy reach of the centre.
Where to Eat
Seville's tapas culture is genuine rather than performed for tourists. The Triana neighbourhood, across the river, has some of the best bars and is less crowded than the historic centre. The Mercado de Triana is a good starting point for lunch. For dinner, the local custom is to eat late — 9pm is early, 10pm is normal.